P.Calm Cato Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Dermopurifiante Purifying Face Cream

P.Calm Cato Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Dermopurifiante Purifying Face Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to balance excess oil and clear breakouts.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Vinyldimethicone

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

C14-22 Alcohols

Phenyl Trimethicone

Behenyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Stearic Acid

Arachidyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Caprylate

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Arginine

Palmitic Acid

Allantoin

Silica

Polyacrylate-13

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ceramide NP

1,2-Hexanediol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Cholesterol

Squalane

Bisabolol

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Octyldodecanol

Glucose

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Oleic Acid

Sorbitan Isostearate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Arachidic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil

Myristic Acid

Glutathione

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Vinyldimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, C14-22 Alcohols, Phenyl Trimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Stearic Acid, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Arginine, Palmitic Acid, Allantoin, Silica, Polyacrylate-13, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ceramide NP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Squalane, Bisabolol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Glucose, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Oleic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Arachidic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Myristic Acid, Glutathione, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Propylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sucrose Polystearate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyamide-5

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Oleanolic Acid

Glycine Soja Oil

Yeast Extract

Citric Acid

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sorbic Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Sucrose Polystearate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Polyamide-5, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Yeast Extract, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, T-Butyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

T-Butyl Alcohol (aka tert-butanol) is a small, clear, camphor-smelling alcohol.

It has two main jobs:

On the safety side, it's well-studied and has a solid track record. Human repeat-insult patch testing showed no skin irritation or sensitization even at 100%.

Typical use levels are pretty tiny, usually less than 1%.

You might see some fear-mongering around this ingredient:

Studies in male rats showed kidney effects but that's because of a rat-specific protein that humans don't make. So this study isn't really relevant to humans.

Though it's not a typical fragrance like parfum, it does have a natural scent. That's why the official COSIng database lists it as 'perfuming' ingredient. It can be used to modify the scent of a formula.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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