Neocutis Lumière Firm Illuminating And Tightening Eye Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Contour des Yeux Biosensible High Tolerance Eye Contour Cream

Neocutis Lumière Firm Illuminating And Tightening Eye Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Contour des Yeux Biosensible High Tolerance Eye Contour Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Phytosphingosine to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-8

Bisabolol

Caffeine

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract

Lecithin

Cutaneous Lysate

Tetrapeptide-21

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Capryloyl Carnosine

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tocotrienols

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate

Ascorbic Acid

Benzoic Acid

Squalene

Phytosterols

Sodium Citrate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Potassium Sorbate

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Hexylene Glycol

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-8, Bisabolol, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract, Lecithin, Cutaneous Lysate, Tetrapeptide-21, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Capryloyl Carnosine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocotrienols, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Squalene, Phytosterols, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Propanediol Dicaprylate

Pentylene Glycol

C12-16 Alcohols

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Perfluorodecalin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitic Acid

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Adansonia Digitata Pulp Extract

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-2

Milk Protein

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Darutoside

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Lactose

Vitis Vinifera Leaf Water

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Propylene Glycol

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Poloxamer 188

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Benzoate

Xanthan Gum

Lactic Acid

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol Dicaprylate, Pentylene Glycol, C12-16 Alcohols, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Perfluorodecalin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Adansonia Digitata Pulp Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Milk Protein, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Darutoside, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Lactose, Vitis Vinifera Leaf Water, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Propylene Glycol, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 188, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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