Geek & Gorgeous Stress Less Versus Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

Geek & Gorgeous Stress Less Versus Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

This calming serum is formulated around Saccharide Isomerate and Madecassoside to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Ceramide NP to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methyl Gluceth-20

Saccharide Isomerate

Glycerin

Madecassoside

Beta-Glucan

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Methyl Gluceth-20, Saccharide Isomerate, Glycerin, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Dipropylene Glycol

Isopentyldiol

Polydecene

Adenosine

Guaiazulene

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Hexapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Japonica Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Propolis Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Oil

Zinc Oxide

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Persea Gratissima Oil

Allantoin

Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract

Calamine

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Panthenol

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Butylene Glycol

Octyldodeceth-16

Tromethamine

Cellulose Gum

Phenyl Trimethicone

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Agar

Mannitol

Zea Mays Starch

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Disodium EDTA

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Hydrogen Dimethicone

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Propolis Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Zinc Oxide, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Allantoin, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea Mays Starch, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Disodium EDTA, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogen Dimethicone

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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