Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule Versus AMPLE:N Peptide Shot Ampoule

Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule Versus AMPLE:N Peptide Shot Ampoule

This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Ceramide NP to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Isopentyldiol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polydecene

Adenosine

Guaiazulene

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Hexapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Japonica Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Propolis Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Oil

Zinc Oxide

Beta-Glucan

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Madecassoside

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Persea Gratissima Oil

Allantoin

Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract

Calamine

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Panthenol

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Butylene Glycol

Octyldodeceth-16

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Cellulose Gum

Phenyl Trimethicone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Agar

Mannitol

Zea Mays Starch

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Disodium EDTA

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Hydrogen Dimethicone

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Propolis Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Zinc Oxide, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Allantoin, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea Mays Starch, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Disodium EDTA, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogen Dimethicone

Alcohol

PEG-32

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Niacinamide

Trehalose

Arginine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Helichrysum Arenarium Extract

Yeast Extract

Pearl Extract

Dimethicone

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Xanthan Gum

Titanium Dioxide

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Mica

Caramel

Calcium Alginate

Gellan Gum

Propylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Phenylpropanol

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Lactic Acid

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Glycolic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol, PEG-32, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Niacinamide, Trehalose, Adenosine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Arginine, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Yeast Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Pearl Extract, Dimethicone, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Mica, Caramel, Agar, Calcium Alginate, Gellan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Lactic Acid, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Glycolic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Agar is the vegan substitute for animal-gelatin. It helps thicken and improve the texture of cosmetics. It comes from cell-walls of red algae.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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