Educational guide
Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Versus Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule
Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Versus Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-
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Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Versus Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Ceramide NP to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Lecithin
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Glycerin
Chlorphenesin
Guaiazulene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Water, Butylene Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Guaiazulene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine
Dipropylene Glycol
Isopentyldiol
Polydecene
Copper Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9
Nonapeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Camellia Japonica Seed Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Calendula Officinalis Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Propolis Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Zinc Oxide
Beta-Glucan
Asiaticoside
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Madecassoside
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Persea Gratissima Oil
Allantoin
Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract
Calamine
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Panthenol
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Alcohol Denat.
Octyldodeceth-16
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Cellulose Gum
Phenyl Trimethicone
Acacia Senegal Gum
Sodium Hyaluronate
Agar
Mannitol
Zea Mays Starch
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Disodium EDTA
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Maltodextrin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrogen Dimethicone
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Propolis Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Zinc Oxide, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Allantoin, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea Mays Starch, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Disodium EDTA, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogen Dimethicone
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Guaiazulene is a fragrance.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!