Zitsticka Hydradew Moisturizer Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

Zitsticka Hydradew Moisturizer Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water

C13-15 Alkane

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Octyldodecanol

Zinc PCA

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Diheptyl Succinate

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

1,2-Hexanediol

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Lecithin

Panthenol

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Ceramide NP

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Octyldodecanol, Zinc PCA, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Diheptyl Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Lecithin, Panthenol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate

Propanediol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Ascorbic Acid

Saccharide Isomerate

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Hexapeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sucrose Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Xanthan Gum

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Citrate

Carbomer

Citric Acid

Lactobacillus Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hydroxyacetophenone

CI 77491

Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sucrose Stearate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, CI 77491

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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