Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro

Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Jojoba Esters

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethyl Macadamiate

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Tricaprylin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Ceramide Ng

Sodium Hyaluronate

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Tocopherol

Malic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Silica

Sodium Lactate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phosphoric Acid

Butylene Glycol

Lactic Acid

Sodium Chloride

Polysorbate 20

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Tricaprylin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tocopherol, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, Sodium Lactate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

Niacinamide

Gellan Gum

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Golden Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Fructan

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Glycine

Polysorbate 80

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Ectoin

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Benzyl Glycol

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Oryza Sativa Extract

Astaxanthin

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Valine

Threonine

Proline

Isoleucine

Histidine

Methionine

Cysteine

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hexapeptide-9

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Nonapeptide-1

Hair Extract

Potassium Hyaluronate

Alcohol

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gellan Gum, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Golden Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Propanediol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Fructan, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Benzyl Glycol, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Oryza Sativa Extract, Astaxanthin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hexapeptide-9, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Nonapeptide-1, Pentylene Glycol, Hair Extract, Potassium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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