Educational guide
Numbuzin No.9 Secret Firming Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro
Numbuzin No.9 Secret Firming Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide
This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.
Numbuzin No.9 Secret Firming Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Propanediol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Niacinamide
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Adenosine
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Linalool
Limonene
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Linalool, Limonene
Sodium Lactate
Gellan Gum
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Golden Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Fructan
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Glycine
Polysorbate 80
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Ectoin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Benzyl Glycol
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Oryza Sativa Extract
Astaxanthin
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Valine
Threonine
Proline
Isoleucine
Histidine
Methionine
Cysteine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Copper Tripeptide-1
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hexapeptide-9
Hyaluronic Acid
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Nonapeptide-1
Pentylene Glycol
Hair Extract
Potassium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Alcohol
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gellan Gum, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Golden Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Propanediol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Fructan, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Benzyl Glycol, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Oryza Sativa Extract, Astaxanthin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hexapeptide-9, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Nonapeptide-1, Pentylene Glycol, Hair Extract, Potassium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate is a positively charged version of hyaluronic acid.
This small change does a lot in a formula:
Regular hyaluronic acid carries a negative charge and so does the surface of your skin. This means the two repel each other and hyaluronic acid can be washed away easily. The positive charge here does the opposite: it makes the ingredient cling to your skin (also called "substantivity") so it keeps hydrating even in rinse-off products where it lays down a light, moisture-holding film.
The research backs this up too; a 2025 clinical study on a shower gel containing 0.1% positively charged hyaluronic acid increased skin hydration by 6.6% versus the baseline and 11.1% versus the placebo. This was measured 6 hours after 1 minute of contact and rinse, and on volunteers with very dry skin.
The same team's lab work showed it adhered to skin far better than unmodified hyaluronic acid (+107% vs. low molecular weight, +23% versus high molecular weight). They also found it increased two proteins tied to skin hydration, aquaporin-3 by 16% and filaggrin by 35%.
A separate 2024 study reached a similar conclusion and credited the hydrating benefits to its film-forming properties.
Both studies used the ingredient at 0.1% which also matches how much it usually shows up in products (at fractions of a percent).
One honesty note worth keeping in mind: the published research comes from the company that manufactures the ingredient so independent data would strengthen the picture. However, the results are consistent and the mechanism makes sense.
As a Hyaluronic Acid derivative, it has a well-tolerated profile and suits most skin types.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!