Educational guide
Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule Versus BOH Bio Heal Probioderm Collagen Remodeling Serum
Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule Versus BOH Bio Heal Probioderm Collagen Remodeling Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lact
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Sungboon Editor Silk Peptide Intensive Lifting Ampoule Versus BOH Bio Heal Probioderm Collagen Remodeling Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Carbomer
Tromethamine
PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Silk Extract
Adenosine
Iron Powder
Agar
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Betaine
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Titanium Dioxide
CI 77491
Mica
Gellan Gum
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Centella Asiatica Extract
Propanediol
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract
Lecithin
Acetyl Glutamine
Phenoxyethanol
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caprylyl Glycol
Tin Oxide
Gold
Squalane
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Benzyl Glycol
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Bacillus
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Collagen
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Caffeoyl Hexapeptide-65
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hyaluronic Acid
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Tromethamine, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Silk Extract, Adenosine, Iron Powder, Agar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Betaine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, Mica, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Phenoxyethanol, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tin Oxide, Gold, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Benzyl Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Bacillus, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Collagen, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caffeoyl Hexapeptide-65, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hyaluronic Acid, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Collagen Extract
Potentilla Anserina Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Phytosterols
Arachidyl Alcohol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Stearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polyquaternium-51
Beta-Glucan
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ceramide NP
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Fructooligosaccharides
Glycosaminoglycans
Gluconolactone
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Cyanocobalamin
Sodium Chloride
Nonapeptide-1
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Xanthan Gum
Tannic Acid
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Pentapeptide-3
Hexapeptide-9
Fructan
Sucrose Distearate
Inulin
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Parfum
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Collagen, Collagen Extract, Potentilla Anserina Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Phytosterols, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Behenyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Arachidyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyquaternium-51, Butylene Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceramide NP, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Fructooligosaccharides, Glycosaminoglycans, Gluconolactone, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Betaine, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride, Nonapeptide-1, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tannic Acid, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-9, Fructan, Sucrose Distearate, Inulin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Collagen is a big structural protein that your body uses to keep skin firm and bouncy. Despite the marketing, topically applied collagen doesn't "refill" the collagen in your skin.
The molecule is too big to pass through your skin barrier so intact Collagen physically can't get past the surface.
What it actually does in your skincare is work as a humectant and film-former: it binds water, lays down a light moisturizing film, and reduces water loss from the surface. This helps make skin feel smoother and temporarily plumper.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics with clinical studies showing no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity. It's typically used at low concentrations (often a fraction of a percent up to a few percent).
Collagen will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
Learn more about hydrolyzed collagen or soluble collagen.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
This tree is also known as the David Elm. It contains the ingredient bakuchiol.
Other great compounds found in this ingredient include galactose, glucose, and phenolics. The sugar content gives it great skin hydrating properties. Phenolics are potent antioxidants commonly found in fruits and veggies.
A 2020 study found the phenolics of this root to have an anti-inflammatory effect.
Fun fact: This ingredient is used in traditional Asian medicine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!