Some By Mi Retinol Intense Advanced Triple Action Eye Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volumn Lif-Tox Eye Cream

Some By Mi Retinol Intense Advanced Triple Action Eye Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volumn Lif-Tox Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethicone

Polysorbate 60

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Cetyl Alcohol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Centella Asiatica Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

1,2-Hexanediol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Panthenol

BHT

Cyclopentasiloxane

Steareth-21

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylamide

Steareth-2

Isohexadecane

Carbomer

Hydroxyacetophenone

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Tromethamine

Palmitic Acid

Polyquaternium-51

Stearic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Retinol 0.1%

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Caprylate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Glycosyl Trehalose

Beta-Glucan

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Laureth-7

Butylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Adenosine

Raffinose

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Lecithin

Tocopherol

Pentylene Glycol

BHA

Myristic Acid

Tranexamic Acid

Propanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Disodium Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen

Madecassic Acid

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Asiaticoside

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Asiatic Acid

Glutathione

Retinal

Madecassoside

Sodium Phosphate

Ferulic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Tetrahydropiperine

Phloretin

Arginine

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, BHT, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-21, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Steareth-2, Isohexadecane, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Tromethamine, Palmitic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Retinol 0.1%, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycosyl Trehalose, Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Laureth-7, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, BHA, Myristic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen, Madecassic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Asiaticoside, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Asiatic Acid, Glutathione, Retinal, Madecassoside, Sodium Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Phloretin, Arginine, Parfum

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Salvia Officinalis Extract

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Pimpinella Anisum Seed Extract

Salmon Egg Extract

Juniperus Oxycedrus Wood Extract

Carnosine

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Golden Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Royal Jelly Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Squalane

Ceramide NP

Betaine

Glyceryl Stearate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Trideceth-6

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Seed Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Butylene Glycol, Juniperus Oxycedrus Wood Extract, Carnosine, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Golden Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Royal Jelly Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Trideceth-6, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Parfum

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons