KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Moisturizing Multi Balm Stick Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Mela Stick

KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Moisturizing Multi Balm Stick Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Mela Stick

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Euphorbia Cerifera Cera

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Pyrus Malus Seed Oil

Octyldodecanol

Microcrystalline Wax

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Candida/Garcinia Cambogia Ferment

Oryza Sativa Germ Oil

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Canola Oil

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Althaea Rosea Flower Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Tocopherol

Adenosine

Water

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Beta-Carotene

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Soluble Proteoglycan

Sodium DNA

BHT

Parfum

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Benzoate

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Hexyl Cinnamal

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Pyrus Malus Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Candida/Garcinia Cambogia Ferment, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Canola Oil, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Tocopherol, Adenosine, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Beta-Carotene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Soluble Proteoglycan, Sodium DNA, BHT, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Beeswax

Diisostearyl Malate

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Polyethylene

Sorbitan Olivate

Ascorbic Acid

Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Monascus Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Angelica Gigas Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Bisabolol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Ceramide NP

Tranexamic Acid

Papain

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Glyceryl Glucoside

Propanediol

Squalane

Glycerin

Alcohol

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Nonapeptide-7

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Hexapeptide-12

Hexapeptide-9

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Dehydroacetic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Beeswax, Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Sorbitan Olivate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Monascus Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Microcrystalline Wax, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Water, Ceramide NP, Tranexamic Acid, Papain, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Glucoside, Propanediol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alcohol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-12, Hexapeptide-9, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.

While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.

This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.

Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.

One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.

At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.

Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract comes from the root commonly known as carrot (the orange kind we eat!).

This extract contains beta-carotene, a pigment responsible for giving plants the orange color. Beta-carotene is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants may help reduce the signs of aging.

Beta-carotene is the reason we turn orange if we eat too many carrots.

It should be noted coming into contact with the leaves of wild carrots can cause skin irritation. The sap causes phytophotodermatitis, or sensitivity exposed to sunlight.

This ingredient is created using the edible parts of the carrot.

This ingredient is also known as Bhringaraj extract or False Daisy. It is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

Research shows it has antioxidant properties; lab studies have found it can protect skin cells from UV-induced damage and help suppress inflammation.

There's also some interesting research on its potential to support hair growth by promoting the growth phase of the hair cycle.

Those with an allergy to plants in the daisy family may want to patch test this ingredient. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated otherwise.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a lightweight oil from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera tree. In cosmetics, it's an emollient that forms a light film to slow water loss and soften skin.

Its fatty acid composition is dominated by oleic acid (70-78%), with smaller amounts of behenic, palmitic, and stearic acids (this profile is actually pretty similar to olive oil).

Notably, this ingredient is oxidatively stable for an oil and resists going rancid as fast as other oils.

A small, in vivo study on 32 participants found a cream with this ingredient increased skin hydration with no reported skin irritation. It also found the tocopherol content gave it some antioxidant activity as well.

One thing to flag for fungal acne: Because this oil is so high in oleic acid, Malassezia can use it as a food source and this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

For everyone else, this ingredient is well-tolerated and nourishing with a good safety track record.

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.

It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.

The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.

This ingredient is also known as sweet almond oil. It is a lightweight, cold-pressed oil from the ripe seeds of the sweet almond tree.

Sweet almond oil is rich in skin-nourishing fatty acids such as oleic acid (55-86%) and linolenic acid (7-35%).

As an emollient, it softens and hydrates skin by forming a thin barrier that locks in moisture.

Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the available safety data and concluded it is safe for topical use.

Because of the oleic acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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