Educational guide
SkinBetter Science Hydration Boosting Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT 10 + 10 Moisturizer with 10% Vitamin C + 10% Peptide Complex + Ceramides
SkinBetter Science Hydration Boosting Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT 10 + 10 Moisturizer with 10% Vitamin C + 10% Peptide Complex + Ceramides This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydra
This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.
SkinBetter Science Hydration Boosting Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT 10 + 10 Moisturizer with 10% Vitamin C + 10% Peptide Complex + Ceramides
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Squalane
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Isosorbide Dicaprylate
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Niacinamide
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Cholesterol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Betaine
Xylitol
Beta-Glucan
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Jojoba Esters
Glucose
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Squalene
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Phytosterols
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Saccharide Isomerate
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Anisate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
Sodium Carrageenan
Sea Salt
Xanthan Gum
Algin
Carbomer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Ceteareth-25
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Betaine, Xylitol, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Esters, Glucose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Squalene, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Saccharide Isomerate, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Anisate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Sodium Carrageenan, Sea Salt, Xanthan Gum, Algin, Carbomer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid
Dimethicone
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Tapioca Starch
Cetearyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Alcohol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Linoleic Acid
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Behenyl Alcohol
Polyisobutene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Hydroxyacetophenone
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Glucoside
Carrageenan
Sorbitan Laurate
Sodium Phytate
C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tapioca Starch, Cetearyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ceramide NP, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Linoleic Acid, Citric Acid, Phytosterols, Glucose, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyisobutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Carrageenan, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Phytate, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols (you can think of them as the plant world's version of cholesterol). In cosmetics, this ingredient is usually sourced from soybean, rice bran, shea, sunflower, and other seed oils.
The main actors in this group are β-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol (the CIR covers 27 phytosterols).
They work by fitting perfectly into your stratum corneum's lipid matrix since they're structurally similar to cholesterol. Here, they reinforce your skin's barrier.
One small in vivo human study showed topical soybean phytosterols sped up barrier recovery within three days on tape-stripped skin.
Broader research credits them with:
Formulation use typically sit under 5%.
Testing in soy-allergic subjects found no sensitization signals, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure or have existing allergies.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!