Numbuzin 9+ NMN Bio Liftingsil Essence Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 35%

Numbuzin 9+ NMN Bio Liftingsil Essence Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 35%

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Polyglycerin-3

Butylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Propanediol

Dimethicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hyaluronate

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentylene Glycol

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Cholesterol

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Copper Gluconate

Resveratrol

Capryloyl Dipeptide-17

Thioctic Acid

Glutathione

Potassium Hydroxide

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Sorbitan Laurate

Steareth-20

Astaxanthin

Sodium Lactate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Panthenol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Dextran

Hexapeptide-2

Magnesium Chloride

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Citric Acid

Biotin

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Tocopheryl Acetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Pentapeptide-18

Tripeptide-3

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Hexapeptide-9

Oligopeptide-3

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Ubiquinone

Copper Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4

Galloyl Pentapeptide-33

Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Octapeptide-7

Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Decapeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-9

Sh-Pentapeptide-19

Asparagine

Glutamine

Tryptophan

Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Carnosine

Nonapeptide-1

Cetearyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Resveratrol, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Glutathione, Potassium Hydroxide, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Potassium Sorbate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dodecane

C15-19 Alkane

Ethyl Macadamiate

Silica

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide

Acetyl Glutamine

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Polyacrylate-13

Pullulan

Polyisobutene

Lecithin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sclerotium Gum

Cetyl Alcohol

Malic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Dodecane, C15-19 Alkane, Ethyl Macadamiate, Silica, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tocopherol, Polyacrylate-13, Pullulan, Polyisobutene, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lactate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Malic Acid, Dextran, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.

It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.

Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Nonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.

It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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