MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Phyto PDRN Lifting Shot Serum

MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Phyto PDRN Lifting Shot Serum

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Polyacrylamide

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Polysorbate 20

Arginine

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract

Carbomer

Allantoin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Laureth-7

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Disodium EDTA

Adenosine

Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-29

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Polyacrylamide, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Arginine, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, Carbomer, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Laureth-7, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Glycerin

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cynanchum Atratum Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Lactobacillus Ferment

Threonine

Proline

Serine

Alanine

Histidine

Leucine

Lysine

Glycine

Glutamic Acid

Cysteine

Urea

Sodium PCA

Ornithine

Tryptophan

Taurine

Citrulline

Aspartic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Methionine

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract

Sodium DNA

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Glutathione

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Propanediol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Panthenol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Folic Acid

Biotin

Pyridoxine

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Arginine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Carbomer, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Lactobacillus Ferment, Threonine, Proline, Serine, Alanine, Histidine, Leucine, Lysine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Cysteine, Urea, Sodium PCA, Ornithine, Tryptophan, Taurine, Citrulline, Aspartic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Methionine, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Sodium DNA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Glutathione, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Folic Acid, Biotin, Pyridoxine, Tocopherol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Oligopeptide-29 is an antioxidant and is a peptide.

Oligopeptide-32 is a peptide.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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