Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule

Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hippophae Rhamnoides Water

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Water

Methyl Gluceth-20

Methylpropanediol

Betaine

Tranexamic Acid

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Propanediol

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Carbomer

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

C12-14 Pareth-12

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Panthenol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Fructooligosaccharides

Beta-Glucan

Ascorbic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Ceramide NP

Alpha-Arbutin

Tocopherol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Bisabolol

Ubiquinone

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Water, Methyl Gluceth-20, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, C12-14 Pareth-12, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Alpha-Arbutin, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Bisabolol, Ubiquinone, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Polyacrylamide

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Polysorbate 20

Arginine

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract

Allantoin

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Laureth-7

Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-29

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Polyacrylamide, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Arginine, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, Carbomer, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Laureth-7, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.

These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.

One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.

A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.

In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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