MEDI-PEEL Pepti-Tox Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule

MEDI-PEEL Pepti-Tox Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide-Tox Bor-Ampoule

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Silk

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Disodium EDTA

CI 77891

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Mica

Calcium Alginate

Gellan Gum

Agar

Caprylyl Glycol

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Madecassoside

Centella Asiatica Extract

CI 77491

Caramel

Sucrose

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Asiaticoside

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Polysorbate 20

Lecithin

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Silk, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, CI 77891, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Mica, Calcium Alginate, Gellan Gum, Agar, Caprylyl Glycol, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, CI 77491, Caramel, Sucrose, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Asiaticoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyacrylamide

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Arginine

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract

Allantoin

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Laureth-7

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract

Parfum

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-29

Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Polyacrylamide, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Arginine, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, Carbomer, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Laureth-7, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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