Herbivore Moon Dew 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Eye Cream Versus Peach & Lily Pure Peach Retinoic Eye Cream

Herbivore Moon Dew 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Eye Cream Versus Peach & Lily Pure Peach Retinoic Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Octyldodecanol

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Bakuchiol

Pullulan

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Rosa Damascena Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Decyl Glucoside

Lauryl Glucoside

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citric Acid

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Alcohol

Hydrated Silica

Sodium Nitrate

Disodium Phosphate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sodium Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bakuchiol, Pullulan, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Alcohol, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Nitrate, Disodium Phosphate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Bambusa Textilis Stem Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Morus Alba Leaf Extract

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Water

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Apium Graveolens Extract

Lactuca Scariola Sativa Leaf Extract

Ceramide NP

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ferulic Acid

Tocopherol

Panthenol

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Adenosine

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol

Betaine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Glyceryl Olivate

Propylene Glycol

Asparagus Officinalis Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phosphoric Acid

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Bambusa Textilis Stem Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Bakuchiol, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Water, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Apium Graveolens Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Lactuca Scariola Sativa Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ferulic Acid, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Adenosine, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Glyceryl Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Asparagus Officinalis Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phosphoric Acid, Corallina Officinalis Extract

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.

You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:

1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do

Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).

The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.

Systematic reviews also back this up:

Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.

The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.

This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.

The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.

The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.

Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.

Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.

Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.

Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.

Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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