Herbivore Moon Dew 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Eye Cream Versus Herbivore Super Nova 5% THD Vitamin C + Caffeine Brightening Eye Cream

Herbivore Moon Dew 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Eye Cream Versus Herbivore Super Nova 5% THD Vitamin C + Caffeine Brightening Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Caffeine to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Octyldodecanol

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Bakuchiol

Pullulan

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Rosa Damascena Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Decyl Glucoside

Lauryl Glucoside

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citric Acid

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Alcohol

Hydrated Silica

Sodium Nitrate

Disodium Phosphate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sodium Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bakuchiol, Pullulan, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Alcohol, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Nitrate, Disodium Phosphate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Triheptanoin

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Propanediol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Stearyl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Caffeine

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Ubiquinone

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Sclerotium Gum

C9-12 Alkane

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium Anisate

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Sodium Phytate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Bacillus Ferment

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Triheptanoin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Stearyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sclerotium Gum, C9-12 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Xanthan Gum, Bacillus Ferment, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.

Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.

Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.

Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.

Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.

While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.

This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.

Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.

One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.

At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.

Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.

Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.

As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.

Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.

Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.

Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

We don't have a description for Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract yet.

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.

Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.

While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.

One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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