Go-To Skincare Very Luxe Face Cream Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

Go-To Skincare Very Luxe Face Cream Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Persea Gratissima Oil

C13-16 Isoalkane

C10-18 Triglycerides

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Behenate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Cholesterol

Collagen

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Phytosphingosine

Behenic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Jojoba Esters

Polyglycerin-3

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Sclerotium Gum

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Triethyl Citrate

Xanthan Gum

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Levulinate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Persea Gratissima Oil, C13-16 Isoalkane, C10-18 Triglycerides, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Collagen, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Phytosphingosine, Behenic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Jojoba Esters, Polyglycerin-3, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Triethyl Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Levulinate, Parfum

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Ascorbic Acid

Saccharide Isomerate

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Hexapeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sucrose Stearate

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Citrate

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactobacillus Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hydroxyacetophenone

CI 77491

Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sucrose Stearate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, CI 77491

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.

Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.

As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.

Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.

Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.

Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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