Glossier Futuredew Versus Summer Fridays Midnight Ritual Retinol Renewal Serum

Glossier Futuredew Versus Summer Fridays Midnight Ritual Retinol Renewal Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Linoleate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Isoamyl Laurate

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Butylene Glycol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Propanediol

Isohexadecane

1,2-Hexanediol

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Chloride

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Propylene Carbonate

Tin Oxide

Mica

CI 77891

CI 77491

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Isoamyl Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propanediol, Isohexadecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Chloride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Tin Oxide, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sorbitan Stearate

Sclerotium Gum

Retinyl Linoleate

Retinol

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Niacinamide

Bisabolol

Persea Gratissima Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glycine Soja Oil

Tocopherol

Phytic Acid

Synthetic Beeswax

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Maltodextrin

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Levulinic Acid

Sodium Levulinate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Propanediol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sclerotium Gum, Retinyl Linoleate, Retinol, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Niacinamide, Bisabolol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phytic Acid, Synthetic Beeswax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Maltodextrin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil (aka "castor wax") is what you get when castor oil is turned into a wax.

Its dominant fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, giving it both emollient and mild humectant properties.

According to EU CosIng, this ingredient helps soften skin, keep oil and water stay mixed, and thickens products.

Hydrogenated castor oil at 30% did not trigger a positive patch-test reaction and is well-tolerated.

Since this ingredient is based on an 18-carbon fatty acid, it falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on and may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

This ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.

The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.

In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:

Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.

Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.

It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.

A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.

You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.

Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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