Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask Versus Summer Fridays Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum

Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask Versus Summer Fridays Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye mask is formulated around Persea Gratissima Oil and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Retinyl Linoleate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Persea Gratissima Oil

C9-12 Alkane

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Stearic Acid

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Squalane

Niacinamide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylresorcinol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Retinol

Pei-10

Hydrated Silica

Sodium Chloride

Fructan

Maltodextrin

Spirulina Maxima Extract

Curcumin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Potassium Chloride

Potassium Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Phosphate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Maltooligosyl Glucoside

Arginine

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Kaolin

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate

Polyisobutene

Pvp

C13-15 Alkane

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer

Hexylene Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Aroma

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima Oil, C9-12 Alkane, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Squalane, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylresorcinol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Pei-10, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Chloride, Fructan, Maltodextrin, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Curcumin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Arginine, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Kaolin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polyisobutene, Pvp, C13-15 Alkane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer, Hexylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Aroma

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Pentylene Glycol

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Ceramide NP

Bisabolol

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Centella Asiatica Extract

Phospholipids

Retinyl Linoleate

Tocopherol

Glycine Soja Oil

Gluconolactone

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Lecithin

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Levulinic Acid

Sodium Levulinate

Benzyl Alcohol

Glycerin, Water, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Pentylene Glycol, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Ceramide NP, Bisabolol, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Phospholipids, Retinyl Linoleate, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Gluconolactone, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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