Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II Versus A'Pieu Lactobacillus Moisturizing Ampoule

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II Versus A'Pieu Lactobacillus Moisturizing Ampoule

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating ampoule is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Methyl Gluceth-20

PEG-75

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Lecithin

Tripeptide-32

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Glycereth-26

Squalane

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Lactobacillus Ferment

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Faex Extract

Choleth-24

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceteth-24

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Hexylene Glycol

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Trisodium EDTA

BHT

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Methyl Gluceth-10

Niacinamide

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Panthenol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Tromethamine

Triethylhexanoin

Adenosine

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Madecassoside

Asiaticoside

Maltodextrin

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus

Limonene

Linalool

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Gluceth-10, Niacinamide, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tromethamine, Triethylhexanoin, Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus, Carbomer, Limonene, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.

These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.

One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.

A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.

In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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