ACO Hydrating Booster Vitamin B Serum Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

ACO Hydrating Booster Vitamin B Serum Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycerin

Propanediol

Panthenol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

Jojoba Esters

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethyl Macadamiate

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Tricaprylin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Ceramide Ng

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Tocopherol

Malic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Carbomer

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Silica

Sodium Lactate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phosphoric Acid

Butylene Glycol

Lactic Acid

Sodium Chloride

Polysorbate 20

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Tricaprylin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tocopherol, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, Sodium Lactate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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