Educational guide
Transparent Lab Barrier Restoring Hydrating Cream Versus Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream
Transparent Lab Barrier Restoring Hydrating Cream Versus Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is
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Transparent Lab Barrier Restoring Hydrating Cream Versus Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
C10-18 Triglycerides
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Coco-Caprylate
Propanediol
Cetyl Alcohol
Oryza Sativa Starch
Glyceryl Stearate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinyl Palmitate
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide Ng
Madecassoside
Asiaticoside
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Mannitol
Xanthan Gum
PEG-75 Stearate
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Phosphatidylcholine
Ceteth-20
Cholesterol
Steareth-20
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Pentylene Glycol
Decyl Glucoside
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Chloride
Tocopherol
Caprylyl Glycol
Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, C10-18 Triglycerides, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Coco-Caprylate, Propanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Oryza Sativa Starch, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide Ng, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Mannitol, Xanthan Gum, PEG-75 Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Phosphatidylcholine, Ceteth-20, Cholesterol, Steareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentylene Glycol, Decyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Panthenol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Dicaprylyl Ether
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
C13-15 Alkane
Cetearyl Olivate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Diglycerin
Ectoin
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sucrose Distearate
Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Sorbitan Olivate
Sea Water
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Lactic Acid
Citric Acid
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, C13-15 Alkane, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Diglycerin, Ectoin, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Distearate, Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sea Water, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.