Educational guide
Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer Versus Natura Bisse Stabilizing Oil-Free Gel Cream
Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer Versus Natura Bisse Stabilizing Oil-Free Gel Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This guide cannot diagnose a condition or recommend a personal treatment plan. Discuss medical questions with a qualified professional.
Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Cream Ultra Plumping Moisturizer Versus Natura Bisse Stabilizing Oil-Free Gel Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Stearate
Isopropyl Myristate
Cetyl Alcohol
Betaine
Hyaluronic Acid
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Squalane
Saccharide Isomerate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Bisabolol
Allantoin
Centella Asiatica Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Resveratrol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glyceryl Laurate
Stearic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Betaine, Hyaluronic Acid, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Resveratrol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Laurate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate
Niacinamide
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Propanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Lens Esculenta Seed Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Arctium Majus Root Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Artemisia Annua Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Disodium EDTA
Octadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4-Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Metabisulfite
Pentylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Limonene
Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal
Linalool
Citronellol
Cinnamyl Alcohol
Citral
Benzyl Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Lens Esculenta Seed Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Artemisia Annua Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Octadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4-Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Citronellol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Saccharide Isomerate comes from sugars found in corn. It is a skin hydrator.
The structure of this ingredient can be altered to be more similar to the carbohydrates found in our skin. This ability to mimic our skin gives it hydrating properties.
Specifically, saccharide Isomerate is a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the air to our skin.
Research shows Saccharide Isomerate to be an effective moisturizer.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.