Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Methyl Gluceth-20

Behenyl Alcohol

Betaine

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Methoxy PEG-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Phenyl Trimethicone

Caprylyl Methicone

Jojoba Esters

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins

Glyceryl Caprylate

Phenoxyethanol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Arachidyl Glucoside

Linalool

Panax Ginseng Seed Oil

Glycine Soja Oil

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Sodium Chloride

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Limonene

Honey

Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract

Panax Ginseng Flower Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract

Polygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract

Retinol

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Alcohol

Glucose

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

BHT

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phytosphingosine

Sodium Polyaspartate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Heptapeptide-4

Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Sodium Hydroxide

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Behenyl Alcohol, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methoxy PEG-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Phenyl Trimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Jojoba Esters, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Arachidyl Glucoside, Linalool, Panax Ginseng Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Chloride, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Limonene, Honey, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Flower Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Polygonatum Odoratum Rhizome Extract, Retinol, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Alcohol, Glucose, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Polyaspartate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Bifida Ferment Lysate

PEG-75

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Propanediol

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Lecithin

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Glycereth-26

Squalane

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Faex Extract

Choleth-24

Ceteth-24

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Hexylene Glycol

Triethanolamine

Trisodium EDTA

Xanthan Gum

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.

It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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