SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Masque Vernix Revitalizing, Regenerating and Protective Cream/Mask for the Face

SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Masque Vernix Revitalizing, Regenerating and Protective Cream/Mask for the Face

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Cholesterol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lecithin and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Glycerin

Cholesterol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Ceramide NP

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Sodium Polyacrylate

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Nylon-12

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Chlorphenesin

Caprylyl Glycol

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Propylene Carbonate

Disodium EDTA

Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer

Adenosine

Dipropylene Glycol

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

T-Butyl Alcohol

Mentha Piperita Oil

Sodium Citrate

Linalool

Isobutane

Ceramide EOP

BHT

Tocopherol

Limonene

Water, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cholesterol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Sodium Polyacrylate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Nylon-12, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Propylene Carbonate, Disodium EDTA, Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer, Adenosine, Dipropylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, T-Butyl Alcohol, Mentha Piperita Oil, Sodium Citrate, Linalool, Isobutane, Ceramide EOP, BHT, Tocopherol, Limonene

Amniotic Fluid

Lecithin

Lanolin Oil

Propylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Alcohol Denat.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Squalane

Raspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters

Hydrolyzed Placental Protein

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Yeast Extract

Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Embryo Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sulfate

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Papain

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

Water, Amniotic Fluid, Lecithin, Lanolin Oil, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane, Raspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Hydrolyzed Placental Protein, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Yeast Extract, Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Embryo Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Potassium Sulfate, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Papain, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33, Ceramide EOP

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.

It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).

Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.

Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.

In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.

You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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