SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Bakuchiol Eye Cream Versus Nø Cosmetics Awake Today Eye Cream

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Bakuchiol Eye Cream Versus Nø Cosmetics Awake Today Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Coffea Arabica Seed Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Squalane

Water

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Betaine

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Heptyl Undecylenate

Lactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate

Glyceryl Stearate

Bakuchiol

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Palmitic Acid

Tromethamine

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Phytosphingosine

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Sucrose Distearate

Asiatic Acid

Lauric Acid

Phytosterols

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Water, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Heptyl Undecylenate, Lactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate, Glyceryl Stearate, Bakuchiol, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Palmitic Acid, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Phytosphingosine, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Sucrose Distearate, Asiatic Acid, Lauric Acid, Phytosterols, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Glycine Soja Oil

Silica

Persea Gratissima Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Bisabolol

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Water, Glycine Soja Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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