Sisley Paris Radiant Glow Express Mask Versus Biologique Recherche Biomagic Mask Energizing Face Mask

Sisley Paris Radiant Glow Express Mask Versus Biologique Recherche Biomagic Mask Energizing Face Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Rosa Canina Fruit Extract for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Glycerin

Kaolin

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Isopropyl Palmitate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

CI 77891

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Tetrasodium EDTA

Illite

Citric Acid

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Glycerin, Kaolin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, CI 77891, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Illite, Citric Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene

Water

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Perfluorodecalin

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Titanium Dioxide

Taraxacum Officinale Extract

Chlorella Sorokiniana Extract

Rhizobian Gum

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glyceryl Stearate

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Cetyl Palmitate

Ceteareth-20

Ceteareth-12

Cetearyl Alcohol

C14-22 Alcohols

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether

Poloxamer 188

Chlorphenesin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Citrate

Water, Kaolin, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Perfluorodecalin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Titanium Dioxide, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Chlorella Sorokiniana Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Saccharide Isomerate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Palmitate, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, C14-22 Alcohols, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Poloxamer 188, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.

Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.

Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.

The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.

Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

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