Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

This brightening essence is formulated around Arbutin and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate to fade the look of dark spots and calm redness.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Arbutin

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Phenoxyethanol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Acanthopanax Senticosus Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Adenosine

Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Disodium EDTA

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Caprylyl Glycol

Asiaticoside

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Chitin

Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Arbutin, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phenoxyethanol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Acanthopanax Senticosus Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Adenosine, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Disodium EDTA, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Caprylyl Glycol, Asiaticoside, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Chitin, Hyaluronic Acid

Niacinamide 10%

Pentylene Glycol

Zinc PCA 1%

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Xanthan Gum

Isoceteth-20

Ethoxydiglycol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Niacinamide 10%, Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA 1%, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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