PSA SKIN Visible Improvement Peptides & Niacinamide Serum Versus Cipher Skincare Night Shift Holistic Tone Balancing Treatment

PSA SKIN Visible Improvement Peptides & Niacinamide Serum Versus Cipher Skincare Night Shift Holistic Tone Balancing Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to fade the look of dark spots and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Propanediol

Ethyl Macadamiate

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Beta-Glucan

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract

Bisabolol

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Allantoin

Ergothioneine

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Oxidized Glutathione

Ubiquinone

Tocopherol

Dimethyl Sulfone

Sea Water

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Malic Acid

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Sodium Gluconate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ethyl Macadamiate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Beta-Glucan, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Ergothioneine, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Oxidized Glutathione, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Dimethyl Sulfone, Sea Water, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Malic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Alpha-Arbutin

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Glycereth-26

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Undecane

Lactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Tridecane

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract

Plankton Extract

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

Xylitylglucoside

Glabridin

Madecassoside

Cetyl Alcohol

Olive Glycerides

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Disodium EDTA

Lactic Acid

Water, Niacinamide, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Alpha-Arbutin, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Glycereth-26, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Undecane, Propanediol, Lactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Tridecane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycerin, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Xylitylglucoside, Glabridin, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Cetyl Alcohol, Olive Glycerides, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract comes from a single-celled green freshwater algae.

The version used in skincare is almost always a water or glycerin-based extract that is basically the algae's amino acids, peptides, sugars, and chlorophyll pigments.

It acts as a skin-conditioning agent and the research behind it at this time is mostly lab-dish rather than human trials.

Isolated Chlorella peptides inhibit collagenase and elastase (the enzymes that chew up collagen and elastin) and mop up free radicals in test-tube assays. Another study found a Chlorella gel sped up wound healing in mice. Many of the firming or dark-circle claims come from the ingredient supplier's own studies.

Suppliers suggest using 1-2% of the trade version (Water/Glycerin + Chlorella Vulgaris Extract) in a finished formula which means the actual algae solids are a fraction of a percent.

Allergy risk is low and topical reactions are rare; the 2020 anaphylaxis case came from eating Chlorella supplements and not from putting it on skin.

However, patch testing is sensible if you have reacted to algae before.

The "chlorella is high in iodine so it breaks you out" line borrows from marine seaweed. Freshwater Chlorella isn't a notable iodine source unless it's deliberately grown in iodine-enriched medium.

Just so you know, many lists give algae a comedogenic rating of 5 and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.

The reasoning behind the reputation is that seaweed is high in iodine and iodine can trigger acne-like breakouts when eaten. This traces back to a 1976 letter in Archives of Dermatology describing two women whose breakouts cleared after they stopped taking high-dose kelp supplements orally.

And the reaction of these two women wasn't clogged pores at all: it was an iodine-triggered pustular rash. Later research found normal dietary iodine doesn't meaningfully affect acne either and nobody has shown topical algae delivers enough iodine to matter.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

We don't have a description for Isodecyl Neopentanoate yet.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.

First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.

What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?

This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.

Matrikines play a role in:

Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.

This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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