Proactiv Amazonian Clay mask Versus Biossance Squalane + Tea Tree Detox Mask

Proactiv Amazonian Clay mask Versus Biossance Squalane + Tea Tree Detox Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Bentonite for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Squalane and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Glycerin

Petrolatum

Cetearyl Alcohol

Propanediol

Stearyl Alcohol

Bentonite

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Oil

Xanthan Gum

Sorbitan Stearate

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Stearyl Alcohol, Bentonite, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Montmorillonite

Illite

Squalane

Cetearyl Olivate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Phytate

Linalool

Water, Montmorillonite, Illite, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Kaolin, Sorbitan Olivate, Propanediol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Phytate, Linalool

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.

Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.

Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.

The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.

Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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