Educational guide
Pharmaceris A Vita-Sensilium Deeply Moisturizing Face Cream Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer
Pharmaceris A Vita-Sensilium Deeply Moisturizing Face Cream Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair m
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Pharmaceris A Vita-Sensilium Deeply Moisturizing Face Cream Versus Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream Moisturizer
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Glyceryl Stearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Methyl Gluceth-20
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters
PEG-8
Sodium Polyacrylate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Allantoin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Triethanolamine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Tocopherol
Codium Tomentosum Extract
Carbomer
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Inulin
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Ascorbic Acid
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters, PEG-8, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethanolamine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Carbomer, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Inulin, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Propanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycine
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Threonine
Valine
Isoleucine
Histidine
Saccharide Isomerate
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Ceramide NP
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hexapeptide-11
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment
Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sucrose Stearate
Lecithin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sodium Citrate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Hydroxide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hydroxyacetophenone
CI 77491
Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sucrose Stearate, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!