Educational guide
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Purcell 82% High Dose Peptide Formula
Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Purcell 82% High Dose Peptide Formula This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Pal
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Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Purcell 82% High Dose Peptide Formula
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Polyglycerin-3
Butylene Glycol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Propanediol
Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Pentylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Cholesterol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Adenosine Triphosphate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Beta-Glucan
Tocopherol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Copper Gluconate
Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment
Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment
Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Capryloyl Dipeptide-17
Thioctic Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Glutathione
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil
Potassium Hydroxide
Resveratrol
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-20
Astaxanthin
Sodium Lactate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Panthenol
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Citrate
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Dextran
Hexapeptide-2
Magnesium Chloride
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Dipeptide-2
Potassium Sorbate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Citric Acid
Biotin
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Dipeptide-4
Hexapeptide-11
Pentapeptide-18
Tripeptide-3
Sh-Decapeptide-7
Sh-Octapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Hexapeptide-9
Oligopeptide-3
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Ubiquinone
Copper Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1
Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4
Galloyl Pentapeptide-33
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23
Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Octapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Decapeptide-9
Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Sh-Pentapeptide-19
Asparagine
Glutamine
Tryptophan
Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Carnosine
Nonapeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Resveratrol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1
Saccharomyces/Hexapeptide-11 Ferment Filtrate Extract 82%
Betaine
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Carnitine
Methyl Gluceth-20
Saccharomyces/Hexapeptide-11 Ferment Filtrate Extract 82%, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Water, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Carnitine, Adenosine, Methyl Gluceth-20, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.