Nø Cosmetics Ultimate Vitamin A Cream Versus The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion

Nø Cosmetics Ultimate Vitamin A Cream Versus The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging emulsion is formulated around Retinal and Ergothioneine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propylene Glycol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Starch

Undecane

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Panthenol

Tridecane

Diglycerin

Magnesium Stearate

Magnesium Sulfate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Plankton Extract

Oleic Acid

Propylene Carbonate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Glycerin

Arginine

Proline

Sorbitol

Glycine

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Glycine Soja Oil

Propanediol

Retinol

Cetyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Stearate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate

Cellulose

Retinal

Hydroxyacetophenone

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Starch, Undecane, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Panthenol, Tridecane, Diglycerin, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Sulfate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Plankton Extract, Oleic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Arginine, Proline, Sorbitol, Glycine, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycine Soja Oil, Propanediol, Retinol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate, Cellulose, Retinal, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Hydroxyapatite

Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Ergothioneine

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Bisabolol

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Isohexadecane

Hexyldecanol

Maltodextrin

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Stearic Acid

Isoceteth-20

Polysorbate 60

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Lactic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyapatite, Retinal, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ergothioneine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Bisabolol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Hexyldecanol, Maltodextrin, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Retinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.

What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.

Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.

Studies back up its efficacy in skin:

A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.

And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.

More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).

Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.

This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.

Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.

Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.

Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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