Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream Versus Colibri Skincare Brightening Booster

Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream Versus Colibri Skincare Brightening Booster

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Panthenol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dicaprylyl Ether

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

C13-15 Alkane

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Cetearyl Olivate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Diglycerin

Ectoin

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide NP

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sucrose Distearate

Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Sorbitan Olivate

Sea Water

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lactic Acid

Citric Acid

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, C13-15 Alkane, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Diglycerin, Ectoin, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Distearate, Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sea Water, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid

Azelaic Acid

Coco-Caprylate

Potassium Hydroxide

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Squalane

Ethyl Macadamiate

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Mandelic Acid

Malic Acid

Behenyl Alcohol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Ethyl Macadamiate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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