Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream Versus Babydream MED Gesichtscreme

Nø Cosmetics All-In Barrier Cream Versus Babydream MED Gesichtscreme

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Panthenol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dicaprylyl Ether

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

C13-15 Alkane

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Cetearyl Olivate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Diglycerin

Ectoin

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide NP

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sucrose Distearate

Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Sorbitan Olivate

Sea Water

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lactic Acid

Citric Acid

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, C13-15 Alkane, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Diglycerin, Ectoin, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Distearate, Heterotheca Inuloides Flower Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sea Water, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sorbitol

Stearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Betaine

Squalane

Octyldodecanol

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

1,2-Hexanediol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sorbitol, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Betaine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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