Mizon Peptide 500 Versus SpoiledChild S33+ Anti-Aging Collagen Burst Serum

Mizon Peptide 500 Versus SpoiledChild S33+ Anti-Aging Collagen Burst Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Copper Tripeptide-1

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Beta-Glucan

Glycine

Tocopherol

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Pentylene Glycol

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Threonine

Proline

Valine

Isoleucine

Sodium

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Histidine

Methionine

Cysteine

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Phosphatidylcholine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Beta-Glucan, Glycine, Tocopherol, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Pentylene Glycol, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Isoleucine, Sodium, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Glycerin

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carnosine

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Carbomer

Lilium Candidum Leaf Cell Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Helichrysum Stoechas Extract

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Caprylyl Glycol

Sorbitan Oleate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

CI 77891

Iron Oxides

Parfum

Linalool

Water, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carnosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lilium Candidum Leaf Cell Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Helichrysum Stoechas Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, Parfum, Linalool

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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