Minimalist Sepicalm 03% Moisturizer Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Minimalist Sepicalm 03% Moisturizer Versus The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Squalane to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Squalane

Glycerin

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids

Sarcosine

Potassium Aspartate

Magnesium Aspartate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Pentylene Glycol

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Sodium Polyglutamate

Undecane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Arginine

Glycine

Alanine

Histidine

Sodium Lactate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Tridecane

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Trehalose

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Squalane, Glycerin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartate, Magnesium Aspartate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Sodium Polyglutamate, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Glycine, Alanine, Histidine, Sodium Lactate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tridecane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Trehalose, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Niacinamide 10%

Zinc PCA 1%

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum

Xanthan Gum

Isoceteth-20

Ethoxydiglycol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Niacinamide 10%, Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA 1%, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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