Medik8 Total Moisture Daily Facial Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique

Medik8 Total Moisture Daily Facial Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Creme A.D.N Metamorphique

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Propanediol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Inulin

Behenyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Caprylyl Glycol

Linoleic Acid

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Glyceryl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Heptapeptide-4

Linolenic Acid

Cetearyl Glucoside

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Diglycerin

Ceramide NP

Sodium PCA

Urea

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Lysine

PCA

Sorbitol

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Trideceth-10

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Allantoin

Oryza Sativa Lees Extract

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Inulin, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linoleic Acid, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Linolenic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Diglycerin, Ceramide NP, Sodium PCA, Urea, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid, Lysine, PCA, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trideceth-10, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Lees Extract

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

C10-18 Triglycerides

Smithsonite Extract

C12-16 Alcohols

Methylpropanediol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Tapioca Starch

Secale Cereale Seed Extract

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Helichrysum Stoechas Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract

Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

Maltodextrin

Lecithin

Isomalt

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysorbate 60

Phenylpropanol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C10-18 Triglycerides, Smithsonite Extract, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Tapioca Starch, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Helichrysum Stoechas Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Plantago Lanceolata Seed Extract, Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Phenethyl Alcohol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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