MEDI-PEEL Pepti-Tox Ampoule Versus Cos De BAHA EGF Peptide 5ppm Cica Madeca Soside Serum

MEDI-PEEL Pepti-Tox Ampoule Versus Cos De BAHA EGF Peptide 5ppm Cica Madeca Soside Serum

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Silk

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Disodium EDTA

CI 77891

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Mica

Calcium Alginate

Gellan Gum

Agar

Caprylyl Glycol

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Madecassoside

Centella Asiatica Extract

CI 77491

Caramel

Sucrose

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Asiaticoside

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Polysorbate 20

Lecithin

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Silk, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, CI 77891, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Mica, Calcium Alginate, Gellan Gum, Agar, Caprylyl Glycol, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, CI 77491, Caramel, Sucrose, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Asiaticoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Betaine

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sodium Hyaluronate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Allantoin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Tropolone

Xanthan Gum

Madecassoside 80%

Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Water, Glycerin, Betaine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Madecassoside 80%

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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