Marcelle Peptide + Probiotic Firming, Anti-Wrinkle & Depuffing Eye Care Cream Versus Clarins Double Serum Eye

Marcelle Peptide + Probiotic Firming, Anti-Wrinkle & Depuffing Eye Care Cream Versus Clarins Double Serum Eye

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment to strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Lactobacillus Ferment

Glycerin

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Silica

Isopropyl Palmitate

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Palmitic Acid

Squalane

Dimethicone

Panthenol

1,2-Hexanediol

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Allantoin

Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Shorea Robusta Resin

Butylene Glycol

Lecithin

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Swertia Chirata Extract

Mica

Tocopheryl Acetate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Caffeine

CI 77891

Arginine

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Phytic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Pentylene Glycol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Benzoate

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Propanediol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Isopropyl Palmitate, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Squalane, Dimethicone, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Allantoin, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Shorea Robusta Resin, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Caffeine, CI 77891, Arginine, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Phytic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate

Niacinamide

Boron Nitride

Maltodextrin

C14-22 Alcohols

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Parfum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Escin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables

Caramel

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Anthriscus Sylvestris Extract

Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Maris Sal

Water, Propanediol, Squalane, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Boron Nitride, Maltodextrin, C14-22 Alcohols, Caffeine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Escin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caramel, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Anthriscus Sylvestris Extract, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Maris Sal

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent that helps cosmetics stay fresh, stable, and consistent over time.

Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product. It also helps prevent the growth of unwanted microbes in products that contain water.

Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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