Maelove Peptide Squad Versus Transparent Lab Ceramide Repair Moisturizer

Maelove Peptide Squad Versus Transparent Lab Ceramide Repair Moisturizer

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Ectoin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Niacinamide

Panthenol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Copper Tripeptide-1

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ceramide AP

Allantoin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Bisabolol

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Glycine

Pullulan

Sodium Lactate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Gluconate

Madecassoside

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Phytosphingosine

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sclerotium Gum

Maltodextrin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Proline

Xanthan Gum

Sodium PCA

Sodium Hydroxide

Lecithin

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Alcohol

Alcohol Denat.

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide AP, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Glycine, Pullulan, Sodium Lactate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Gluconate, Madecassoside, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Phytosphingosine, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sclerotium Gum, Maltodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Proline, Xanthan Gum, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Alcohol Denat.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polysorbate 80

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Hyaluronic Acid

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ectoin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Phosphatidylcholine

Mannitol

Sucrose Distearate

Cholesterol

Carbomer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Glyceryl Stearate

Decyl Glucoside

Pentylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Sorbitan Oleate

Sodium Chloride

Triethanolamine

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 80, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ectoin, Madecassoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Phosphatidylcholine, Mannitol, Sucrose Distearate, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Chloride, Triethanolamine, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.

It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).

Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.

Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.

In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.

You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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