Lumene Nordic C Glow Refresh Hydrating Mist Versus Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum

Lumene Nordic C Glow Refresh Hydrating Mist Versus Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Glycerin

Propanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Maltodextrin

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Limonene

Linalool

Parfum

Water, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum

Squalane

Niacinamide

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Bakuchiol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Yeast Extract

Soy Amino Acids

Lecithin

Hexylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Geraniol

Water, Squalane, Niacinamide, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Bakuchiol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Yeast Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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