Educational guide
La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex
La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair e
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La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Algae Extract
Dimethicone
Isododecane
Polysilicone-11
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Medicago Sativa Seed Powder
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Sodium Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Tocopheryl Succinate
Niacin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Water
Propanediol
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Whey Protein
Caffeine
Acetyl Glucosamine
Pisum Sativum Extract
Helichrysum Arenarium Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Centaurium Erythraea Extract
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Sucrose
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
PEG-8
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Molasses Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Micrococcus Lysate
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Polysorbate 20
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Urea
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycosaminoglycans
Parfum
Isohexadecane
Pentylene Glycol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tetraacetylphytosphingosine
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Squalane
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Ruby Powder
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Tourmaline
Hydrolyzed Algin
Potassium Sorbate
Gold
Glucosamine Hcl
Caprylyl Glycol
Yeast Polysaccharides
Polysorbate 80
Trehalose
Polyquaternium-51
Hexylene Glycol
Faex Extract
Cholesterol
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Lecithin
Maltodextrin
Alcohol Denat.
Xanthan Gum
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Hydroxycitronellal
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Limonene
Caramel
CI 14700
Algae Extract, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Propanediol, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pisum Sativum Extract, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Centaurium Erythraea Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sucrose, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, PEG-8, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Molasses Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycosaminoglycans, Parfum, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Squalane, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Ruby Powder, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Tourmaline, Hydrolyzed Algin, Potassium Sorbate, Gold, Glucosamine Hcl, Caprylyl Glycol, Yeast Polysaccharides, Polysorbate 80, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hexylene Glycol, Faex Extract, Cholesterol, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Alcohol Denat., Xanthan Gum, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene, Caramel, CI 14700
Methyl Trimethicone
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Petrolatum
Polysorbate 40
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
Jojoba Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Isopropyl Jojobate
Jojoba Esters
Hydrogenated Lecithin
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Sodium Rna
Phytosphingosine
Potassium Sulfate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tripeptide-32
Tromethamine
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Methyl Trimethicone, Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Sucrose, Petrolatum, Polysorbate 40, Trehalose, Algae Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Jojoba Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Esters, Isohexadecane, Faex Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cholesterol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Rna, Caffeine, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Squalane, Potassium Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tripeptide-32, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a synthetic polymer used to stabilize formulas and give products a "gel-cream" feel.
When applied, this ingredient mostly stays on the surface of skin. Safety reviews have found these polymers safe in cosmetics when made to proper quality standards. Testing also shows they’re unlikely to cause irritation or sensitization at normal use levels.
Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.
The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.
Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
We don't have a description for Faex Extract yet.
Glycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.
The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.
Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.
One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.
The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.
Hordeum Vulgare Extract is an extract of barley, the same grain used in beer and bread.
In skincare, it is a skin conditioning and hydrating agent. This ingredient contains polyphenols, vitamin E, and trace minerals like zinc, copper, and selenium that help neutralize free radicals behind oxidative skin stress.
Lab studies on human skin cells show it can support the skin barrier, boost cell survival, and speed repair after UV exposure.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has reviewed 16 barley-derived ingredients and concluded they're safe as used with the highest reported use concentration being 1.5% (in leave-on body/hand products).
Patch testing has also found it not to be a skin irritant or sensitizer at cosmetic levels.
However, barley is a recognized food allergen so people with a known barley/grain allergy should approach it cautiously.
Note: This ingredient is not gluten-free for those avoiding gluten for skin-contact reasons.
This ingredient is made from brown seaweed and is often used to improve the texture of products.
According to a manufacturer, this is a lightweight ingredient and a smaller form of algin. This allows it to be easily mixed with water and improve the spreadability of products.
It also has conditioning properties that mostly sits on the surface of skin as an emollient. Some lab research has explored it in anti-aging formulas, but the results were modest.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Sucrose is a natural sugar found in fruits, vegetables, and nuts. It is the main constituent of white sugar.
In skincare, sucrose is a humectant and can be a mild exfoliant.
Sucrose is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water. This makes it an effective humectant and helps hydrate the skin.
Studies show sugars may worsen acne-prone skin due to it disrupting the skin's natural biome. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
In some products such as body scrubs, sucrose is used as an gentle exfoliant.
The term 'sucrose' comes from the french word for sugar, 'sucre'.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
This ingredient is extracted from the germ part of the wheat plant. The germ of a plant refers to the seed embryo, or part that sprouts into a new plant.
Some studies have found wheat germ to help with wound healing.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!