Educational guide
KIKO Milano Smart Hydra Shot Eye Gel Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex
KIKO Milano Smart Hydra Shot Eye Gel Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex This calming eye moisturizer is formulated around Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water and Caffeine to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair eye moist
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KIKO Milano Smart Hydra Shot Eye Gel Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex
This calming eye moisturizer is formulated around Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water and Caffeine to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Hydroxide
Caffeine
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Creatine
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Propylene Glycol
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Capsicum Annuum Leaf Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Sodium Carrageenan
Maris Sal
CI 42090
Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caffeine, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Creatine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propylene Glycol, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Capsicum Annuum Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Sodium Carrageenan, Maris Sal, CI 42090
Methyl Trimethicone
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Sucrose
Petrolatum
Polysorbate 40
Trehalose
Algae Extract
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Hydrolyzed Algin
Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
Jojoba Alcohol
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Isopropyl Jojobate
Jojoba Esters
Isohexadecane
Faex Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Cholesterol
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Rna
Polysorbate 80
Phytosphingosine
Squalane
Potassium Sulfate
Tripeptide-32
Tromethamine
BHT
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Methyl Trimethicone, Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Sucrose, Petrolatum, Polysorbate 40, Trehalose, Algae Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Jojoba Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Esters, Isohexadecane, Faex Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cholesterol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Rna, Caffeine, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Squalane, Potassium Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tripeptide-32, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!