Educational guide
ISDIN A.G.E. Reverse Night Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
ISDIN A.G.E. Reverse Night Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This
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ISDIN A.G.E. Reverse Night Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Niacinamide
Betaine
Olus Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Silica
Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Octyldodecanol
Stearyl Alcohol
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Alcohol Denat.
Butylene Glycol
Phenylpropanol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Tridecyl Stearate
Carnosine
Parfum
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Melatonin
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Disodium EDTA
PEG-75 Stearate
PEG-8
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Lactate
Ceteth-20
Steareth-20
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Magnesium Chloride
Helichrysum Italicum Extract
Ascorbic Acid
Citric Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
CI 15985
CI 19140
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Betaine, Olus Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tridecyl Stearate, Carnosine, Parfum, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Melatonin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-8, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Chloride, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, CI 15985, CI 19140
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Methyl Gluceth-20
Glycereth-26
PEG-75
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Tripeptide-32
Sodium Hyaluronate
Faex Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cola Acuminata Seed Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Hydrolyzed Algin
Pantethine
Caffeine
Lecithin
Sodium Rna
Bisabolol
Squalane
Oleth-3 Phosphate
Oleth-3
Oleth-5
Choleth-24
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
Ceteth-24
Triethanolamine
Tetrasodium EDTA
BHT
Xanthan Gum
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
CI 14700
Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.
This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.
It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!