Is Clinical Cleansing Complex Versus Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02

Is Clinical Cleansing Complex Versus Biologique Recherche Lait Vip 02

This cream cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Madecassic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Phospholipids

Tocopheryl Acetate

Retinyl Palmitate

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Phenoxyethanol

Squalane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Amniotic Fluid

Perfluorodecalin

PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Polyacrylamide

Cetyl Palmitate

Alcohol Denat.

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Ethyl Oleate

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether

Ethyl Linolenate

Poloxamer 188

Laureth-7

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrolyzed Silk

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Yeast Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Embryo Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Vinegar

Tea-Lactate

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Alcohol

Sorbitol

Ethyl Linoleate

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Papain

Myrtus Communis Extract

Allium Cepa Bulb Extract

Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Serine

Urea

Allantoin

Rhizobian Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Tocopherol

Potassium Sorbate

Chlorphenesin

Thiamine Hcl

Pyridoxine Hcl

Sodium Salicylate

Sorbic Acid

Water, Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Amniotic Fluid, Perfluorodecalin, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol Denat., C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethyl Oleate, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Ethyl Linolenate, Poloxamer 188, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Yeast Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Embryo Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar, Tea-Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Alcohol, Sorbitol, Ethyl Linoleate, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Papain, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Salicylate, Sorbic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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