innisfree Black Tea Youth Enhancing Ampoule Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

innisfree Black Tea Youth Enhancing Ampoule Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Squalane

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Adenosine

Palmitic Acid

Parfum

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Limonene

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Linalool

Citronellol

Myristic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Lauric Acid

Tocopherol

Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Ceramide NP

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Limonene, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Linalool, Citronellol, Myristic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Ceramide NP

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Methyl Gluceth-20

PEG-75

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Propanediol

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Lecithin

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Glycereth-26

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Lactobacillus Ferment

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Faex Extract

Choleth-24

Ceteth-24

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Hexylene Glycol

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Trisodium EDTA

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Faex Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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