iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Extreme Cream Firming & Lifting Moisturizer Versus Maelove Peptide Squad

iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Extreme Cream Firming & Lifting Moisturizer Versus Maelove Peptide Squad

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

C13-15 Alkane

Squalane

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate

Bisabolol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glycerin

Magnesium Sulfate

Panthenol

Glyceryl Behenate

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Heptapeptide-7

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Allantoin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Arginine

Glycosphingolipids

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate

Stearic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Carnosine

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Quaternium-90 Bentonite

Mica

Triethyl Citrate

Zinc Stearate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Water, C13-15 Alkane, Squalane, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, Bisabolol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Glyceryl Behenate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Heptapeptide-7, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Arginine, Glycosphingolipids, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Mica, Triethyl Citrate, Zinc Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

Niacinamide

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Glycine

Pullulan

Sodium Lactate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Dimethicone

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Gluconate

Madecassoside

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Sclerotium Gum

Maltodextrin

Proline

Sodium PCA

Sodium Hydroxide

Alcohol

Alcohol Denat.

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide AP, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Glycine, Pullulan, Sodium Lactate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Gluconate, Madecassoside, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Phytosphingosine, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sclerotium Gum, Maltodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Proline, Xanthan Gum, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Alcohol Denat.

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.

It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).

Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.

Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.

In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.

You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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